China is Not What You Expect
This post was originally a collection of short-form Notes on Substack. I now publish on Ghost, a decentralized, non-profit, and carbon-neutral platform—free from VC funding and the grip of technofeudal lords.
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穷则变，变则通，通则久。
“When things reach an extreme, they change; with change comes adaptability, and through adaptability comes continuity.”
—《易经》(Yì Jīng / I Ching) – Book of Changes
塞翁失马，焉知非福。
“When the old man from the frontier lost his horse, how could one have known it wouldn’t be a blessing?”
—《淮南子》(Huainanzi) – from the Western Han Dynasty
彼一时，此一时。
“That was one time, this is another.”
— 庄子 (Zhuangzi)
The curse it is cast
The slow one now
Will later be fast
As the present now
Will later be past
The order is rapidly fadin'
And the first one now
Will later be last
For the times they are a-changin'
— Bob Dylan
True wisdom washes over the West-East divide, puts a plug in politics, and unshackles what you feel. There’s no better way to find these truths than to travel, read, and listen to music voraciously.
Do I have wisdom to share? I don’t know. I’m still working on my article about China—the country that changed my perspectives at the same impressive (and possibly perilous) rate it changed its GDP.
Those deep reflections and research will come out next week. For now, here are my unfiltered, premature thoughts and experiences while I was in China.
Hong Kong
How I spent 24 hours in Hong Kong: Kennedy Town, getting lost near Victoria Peak, receiving directions + tea & snacks from strangers, eating congee with a lovely elderly woman who tried to translate the menu in English for me (the menu was already translated, but she didn’t notice), and slurping down chicken feet soup and munching on goose with my Couch Surfing host.
Zhuhai
Initial impressions of China:
- The customs control was more humane and chill than entering Canada as a Canadian. Don't even get me started on the USA. It makes me question what the real “free” countries are.
- It’s more peaceful and less crowded than I expected. The fact that 80% of the cars are electric also adds to the stillness in Zhuhai.
- People are way more flexible with the etiquette rules. My ideas were a bit old-fashioned.
- Fresh, healthy meals loaded with herbs and veggies are everywhere.
- My only complaint is that plastic is used for everything.
Zhuhai - Chengdu - Beijing
Who promotes homogenization more, China or America? I thought the answer was clear, but once I entered Beishan Village, Zhuhai (the first three pics), my perception began to change.
Here, everyone had true style—no big brand labels or flashy shit. The bars, restaurants, and cafes reflected the people’s individual and unique fashion choices. There was an elegance to the cultivated casualness I’d often thought the nouveau riche couldn’t pull off. Yet, in China, I couldn’t tell the difference between those with old money and those with new money (something easy to do in Europe, but not in the USA).
Then again, is this style just cultural imperialism from the USA? Hoodies, caps, running shoes, craft beer, industrial-chic art zones with boutique stores, coffeeshops with six different types of milk, and so forth.
Chengdu & the Sichuan Region
Welcome to Mount Qingcheng (青城山), the first time I ever had to scan my face and passport to go hiking.
The front mountain is around a 3-5 hour round trip. I have never seen so many women in heels and clogs suffering up a mountain. Apparently, it’s all for clothing companies focusing on social media marketing. And never have they seen a shirtless white dude quickly putting his clothes back so he wouldn't disrespect the temples.
Not only did I stand out since there were three white people out of thousands of hikers, but I also managed to drop my phone down the side of the mountain, climb down, and create a crowd of screaming (and very helpful) Chinese people.
Xiamen
Although Southern Fujian food and style are on every corner, Gulangyu Island’s got some of the most European architectural vibes I’ve come across so far. The first European settlers came in the mid-19th century during the First Opium War. Now it’s a car-free UNESCO World Heritage Site, so I'm glad I didn't come here during the peak season. As usual, I’m one of the only foreigners at these “tourist spots” in April.
Also, the piano museum kicks ass.
Shanghai
My first impressions of Shanghai: breathable, full of greenery, and peaceful. We have such a fabricated idea of China in the West.
Yes, I have some very different photos when flying over the port, but what do you expect when it’s the biggest in the world?
So far, Shanghai feels like an Asian, North American, and European city all at once. Modern Chinese cleanliness, incredibly cheap transport, smells of flowers, and abundant, affordable food, and constant surveillance. European architecture and parks. And North American big stuff.
Dalian
Dalian has one of the most diverse and lively (and living) seafood markets I’ve ever visited. And yes, I ate almost everything you see here, including the nutritious but bland sea cucumber.
Beijing
My busiest day in Beijing: From the camera, police-ridden, lifeless, but crowded and historically rich core of Beijing (The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square) to the 798 art district. An industrial-chic neighbourhood with tons of art galleries, cafes, designer clothes, and artists on their best law-abiding behaviour. Then I went to Fangjia Hutong, which was my favourite—traditional dwellings with a mixture of cafes and local eateries. The guy who offered me a can of beer on the street was just the vibe I needed after seeing too many statue-like military boys.
My last full day in China was spent in awe. I was about to avoid it because I didn't want to do a touristy activity—that would have been a dumbass idea.
The People & Food
In the past 30 days, I’ve eaten something new every day. I'll write more about it in an article, but here are some examples:
Silk worms—I wasn't a fan of the mushy texture, but they're pretty good when cooked right with a hint of sauce. Plus, they are super rich sources of protein, minerals, and vitamins.
Sea cucumbers with cucumbers—They don't have much taste, but they’re highly prized (and priced) because the wild ones are rare, and in Chinese medicine, they are believed to help with fatigue, impotence, and joint pain.
Wax berries—a bit tangy and sweet.
焖子 (Mènzi) — Local to Dalian. It’s made with sweet potato starch, and it’s a bit crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside. The savoury sauce is made with sauce made from garlic, sesame paste, soy sauce, and sometimes vinegar or chilli oil. Fucking delicious! And it’s $2-3 a bowl.
土笋冻 (Tǔ Sǔn Dòng) or “Earth Bamboo Shoot Jelly,” which is actually sandworms boiled and gelatinized. It’s got a chewy texture with a briny and umami flavour. I actually loved it.
Pig Feet—A classic in the Shesuan region. I didn't love it, but it was yummy. If you can manage to make pig feet taste decent, you know you've got some legit cooking skills. And that's what I loved about China—they can make anything taste good here. You just have to get into the different textures, and once you do, it becomes addictive.
Why are we such greedy pigs in the West?
One of the things I’m going to miss most about Chinese culture is that nobody rips you off.
In the West, we squeeze every dollar out of you we can. But in China, I often gave my phone to vendors and let them enter the amount I owed—it was always the amount locals paid.
On top of that, here’s a picture of an airport vending machine. The prices are the same as those of many supermarkets. A Western airport usually rapes you for shit sandwich. Here, I can get a delicious airport meal for several bucks—a combination of words I never thought I’d write.
Efficient high-quality health care, low taxes, the cleanest cities, unrivalled safety, tons of electric cars and green spaces, incredibly inexpensive food, and industrial marvels. Sure, we can point to an authoritarian government that streamlined these feats with questionable tactics, but what makes China one of the greatest countries I've visited is its people. No other nation works this hard, but everyone finds time to help you with a smile. Rarely have I experienced such consistent, genuine hospitality and care elsewhere. Although I’m their teacher, I have much to learn from my students. I feel truly blessed for the experiences I had in China.
At this point, you might be thinking I am an ambassador brainwashed by Chinese propaganda. Although I loved the country and its people, I'm far from a regime supporter. Read more here.
Nolan Yuma
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